Apostle of the Product.
François-Xavier Lambory keeps his course, that of the extreme will to bring back in his cooking what the earth and the sea offer of more noble. Let us salute his merit. He is one of those who do not give up. Using the torment of these strange times to advance towards the best: refining here a bar, there a private lounge and between the two, dressing the dining room. Step by step, touch by touch, he has tastefully migrated his restaurant to a modern setting, giving it a sober and delicate elegance.
On the plate, François-Xavier Lambory's breviary is expressed and affirmed more than ever around a seasonal cuisine celebrated with mastery between tradition and innovation. Always in direct contact with the season and relying on first-rate products, he confirms his loyalty and obvious connivance with the best suppliers of high-flying products. His cuisine is a form of frontal truth, a salute to nature, a devotion to Taste. As with this sublime squab, one of the best we have tasted in ages.
As with this Mackerel à la flamme, celery, oysters, seaweed and cucumber, as with these Roasted Langoustines, butternut and chanterelles, coconut and green curry bisque, as with this Limousin calf sweetbread from the Dordogne, wild mushrooms, parmesan, marrow or this Roasted venison backbone smoked with beech wood, cocoa and wild mushrooms.
The cellar is a perfect relay of the plate. The chef sets the tone by proposing a large collection dominated by wines from France, Italy and Spain. That day, he had extracted for us a yellow wine from Château Chalon at Berthet-Bondet, a Corbières from Maxime Magnon, cuvée "La Bégou" and a Rosso di Montalcino from Stella di Campalto (podere San Giusseppe).
This boy is a story teller, beautiful stories, fine and greedy. And we like it.