Youth is an art.
Since the birth of Le Quai, in the summer of 2020, in several venues, it's been the same feeling: that of surrendering oneself into beautiful hands, donning the costume of an ecstatic victim. You know where you are, or almost.
The street is always poetic, the old cobblestones lined with beautiful honey locust trees, rediscovering the scent of a gentle urban stroll. Like a theater. And then there's this superb house, with its dignified charm. It was here, within these walls, that Maxence Bourhala, Charles-Maxime Legrand and Nina Vray, in a fitting return to their roots, chose to set down arms and baggage, in the heart of their native land, not even two years ago. The weapons: their knives and whips, their pots and plates. The baggage; their lives, their paths, their schools; between Yves Mattagne's Sea Grill, the Frères Thomaes' Château du Mylord, Thierry Theys' Nuance and Gré du Vent, for them and in no particular order. These young hands have knowledge, enthusiasm and desire. An appetite for good food, a desire to give good food. And that virtuoso touch.
Once you're inside, the decor is like a questing wife, with a signature. It's delightfully reassuring to know you're in a den of good taste, whatever form that may take. There's also the presence of a beautiful central bar, soothing colors, well-chosen furniture and beautiful lighting. It all adds up to a lively, delicate atmosphere. However, the real and beautiful reason, the essential reason to push open the door of this beautiful house, is the plate.
Youth is an art. Oscar Wilde was right. Nothing could be truer for our three accomplices. The kitchen is more than up to the task, and the team is growing in stature with a youthful spirit and an eye for excellence.
We've already immersed ourselves a few times in the Quai N°4 menus. So many beautiful walks, so many lovely journeys, as if taken by the hand in the flights of the young brigade. Tender and generous, faithful to a spirit of simplicity and taste, the plate is a delight of precise work on meticulously selected products. Every time you visit, you'll see an enlightened sense of composition, a concern for textures and a real eye for juices and sauces. Here and now, we're still witnessing beautiful flights of fancy with Swordfish, celery and lime; Monkfish, tomato, eggplant and parmesan; Crayfish, cabbage, orange and watercress; or Calf's sweetbread, langoustine, rice pilaf and sucrine.
There's no forced landing in these menus; grace asserts itself and carries the whole through, not least thanks to Charles-Maxime's desserts: airy, tasty, fine and inventive. Proof of this is provided by this score based on Peach, Champagne and basil, or this version of Pavlova, nectarine and redcurrant.
In the dining room, the service is more than attentive and precise.
The road ahead promised to be beautiful, and it is. And now with a star.