Since the birth of Quai in the summer of 2020, over several visits, there's been a consistent feeling: that of surrendering to skilled hands, donning the attire of an ecstatic connoisseur. We know where we are, or almost.

The street remains poetic, with its old cobblestones bordered by beautiful rowan trees, evoking the fragrance of a gentle urban stroll. Like a theater. And then, this magnificent house, with its dignified charm. It's here, within these walls, that Maxence Bourhala, Charles-Maxime Legrand, and Nina Vray, in a rightful return to their roots, chose to settle, in the heart of their native land, not even two years ago. The weapons; their knives and whisks, their pots and plates. The baggage; their lives, their paths, their schools; between Yves Mattagne's Sea Grill, the Thomaes Brothers' Château du Mylord, Thierry Theys' Nuance, and Gré du Vent, for them and in no particular order. These young hands possess knowledge, enthusiasm, desire. A hunger to create goodness, a desire to provide fine food. And that virtuoso touch.

Once inside, the decor embraces the quest, it carries a signature. It's wonderfully reassuring to know that you're in a temple of good taste, no matter what form it may take. There's also the presence of a beautiful central bar, soothing colors, well-chosen furniture, beautiful lighting. All of this contributes to creating a lively and delicate atmosphere. However, the real and beautiful reason, the essential subject to push the door of this beautiful house, is the plate.

We've already immersed ourselves several times in the menus of Quai N°4. Each visit is a beautiful walk, a lovely journey, as if taken by the hand in the flights of the young brigade. Tender and generous, faithful to a spirit of simplicity and taste, the plate delights with precise work on carefully selected products. It testifies on each visit to an enlightened sense of composition, a concern for textures, and real work on juices and sauces.

There's no forced landing in these menus; grace asserts itself and carries the whole, especially through Charles-Maxime's desserts: airy, flavorful, refined, and inventive.

LD