Youthful beauty. Already.
We could forget how few months RectoVerso has been in existence, it's not that long ago. We know that time moves fast, very fast, too fast. We know that hours become days, days become weeks, and weeks become months. Time flies, we know.
From RectoVerso, we've known the beginnings, revealing a cuisine that was already assured. Assertive, precise and tasty. Robin Van Habost and Loïc Thirion, in a more than complicit pairing, and since joined by Thomas Bourgeois, were all infused with the crazy energy of the beginnings, as if propelled towards the beautiful horizons opening up before them. At the end of winter 2021, yesterday, as soon as the first bites were sent out, they knew they had to stir and attract, light their own fire, without bragging too much, and forget to reassure themselves and push each other off the collar on the easy little feats we know so much about.
The result today is that, if their natural style is discretion, their cooking style is expression. Still working, still conniving, already an obvious accomplice. Their foundation, their base, their law.
Back on land. The restaurant room is beautiful, light and long, dressed in the finest local materials. It's wide, with a gaping opening onto the kitchen. Just as a stage might be towards its audience. Bright and lively, it's the perfect setting for the faithful audience led by Thomas Serbeniuk, RectoVerso's benevolent sword arm, attentive service and diligent, vinous conscience.
Then there's the plate, the other essential. She does it right. She moves forward each morning with an almost casual serenity, with a sure and promising precision, and curious about the many seasons to come. You can talk about the products, you can look at the cooking, you can scrutinize the seasonings, you can taste the sauces… and see it all as a form of good drunkenness.
Some of these young people's complicit waltz has revealed the essential quality of doubt. Doubt. The doubt that allows us to search, to try, to make mistakes and come back to them, and to offer a cuisine of sensations, of flavors that are just right, without too much abuse, beautiful and not too flashy.
It's not often we've eaten so beautifully, so soon.
Here they are. They're already here.
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