Because it is right and always good.
Nowadays, the restaurant business in Brussels is more formatted than ever. We can no longer count the brands that come up with dripping burgers, improbable poke bowls and other ready-to-suck specialties, globalization does not spare the plates. Fortunately, there are still some islands of resistance. They are some to carry on their shoulders the heavy responsibility of an original national gastronomy.
Between the Sablon and the Marolles, Dirk Myny tirelessly continues his work. With his benevolence and his will to give good food, he continues his way by keeping his appetite to live and to share his tasty and generous approach of the table.
Born of a Flemish father and a Walloon mother, Dirk Myny is one of them. In order to counteract standardization, the chef has seized upon the so-called brasserie cuisine to reinterpret it and redefine its contours. Obsessed with flavour, Dirk Myny has made the product the center of his work. To do so, he favors local products but does not hesitate to glean the best from other regions when a preparation requires it. His terroir is gourmandise. Each plate is unique, because each product is unique and here, the cooking is not weighed. In search of authenticity, Dirk Myny shares with you a traditional cuisine that he claims and continually reinvents, a cuisine that rings true.
This results in a few highlights, including his now famous "Zenne Pot", which is cabbage cooked in gueuze presented on a bed of bloempanch, dry sausage and whelks. The whole thing is a subtle play on acidity. But there are also his incessant variations on a staple: the Vol-au-vent. We remember this seasonal variation based on pheasant, chicory and Brussels sprouts, gueuze mousseline and French fries, and recently this Charlotte potato crumble, hazelnut butter and grey shrimp. A simple dish that touches the heart.
The setting, too, makes a strong case. Located in a former post office transformed into an art nouveau style restaurant that he took over more than 25 years ago, the Brigittines' theater is punctuated by period paintings, green walls, a large fireplace, woodwork and sensual lines, we are transposed into a gastronomic elsewhere, again far from the current consensus.
One last word on the drinks menu. Logically, the selection is off the beaten track, with a number of unsuspected vintages. Among other things, we discover one of the most beautiful wine lists of Alsace in the capital. Dirk Myny knows the vineyards of this region inside out. Sharing his pleasure of discovery, he can offer you new wines rather than visible brands or a brewing pearl such as the Cantillon gueuze.
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