Consistency: more than a value, a true talent.

We tip our hat to Pierre Massin. And we honour his courage—to dare, to stay true to himself, to step out of routine and create something new. Some time ago, he left behind a place where everything had already been said, to seek new freedom. And that is what this story is truly about.

For the past few years, Pierre and his wonderful team have embraced a different rhythm, a new journey, in a new setting. A contemporary building that flows with nature and space. A bright jewel box for a dining room that embraces radical calm—a refined atmosphere blending timber tones, soft concrete, and high drapes with a natural grace.

You need to feel the pulse of this place to appreciate the selfless cuisine of the new Chai Gourmand. Hats off for the chef’s consistency, his mastery, and his tenacity in steering clear of fleeting trends. His cooking stays the course; Pierre is clearly a fulfilled man and a chef with strong convictions. He doesn't shake things up—he refines, improves, asserts.

Faced with his ‘Lobster Roll’ with avocado, cucumber, and grapefruit, you’re left momentarily speechless. The mystery only unravels in the mouth, as each bite tells its own story. A dish that seems simple but highlights exceptional produce, elevated by thoughtful complements.

And the same holds true for the rest of the menu: lightly smoked salmon with sorrel, leeks, and radish; wild fish with green asparagus, mussels, pancetta and orange; morels stewed in sherry with foie gras ravioli, turnips and broad beans; duck from the Dombes—roasted breast with aubergine, cherry, cucumber, and the leg in a gently garlicked parmentier; rhubarb, lychee, raspberry; warm Méan goat cheese with artichoke, basil, mushrooms, and dried beef; strawberry, nougat, grapefruit sorbet and Cava.

A cuisine served by a team whose generous, relaxed service is filled with sincere kindness and free from unnecessary formality.

The wine cellar, curated by sommelier Laurent Lebrun, harmoniously follows the chef’s creations—coherent, uplifting, constantly evolving, and in tune with the times.

At a time when many swoon over the ephemeral and empty hype, I salute consistency—more than a value, a real talent.

LD