Bagù
Since its early days, Bagù has conveyed the feeling of a house already established. Not through fashion or display, but through a sense of natural continuity, as if the restaurant had settled effortlessly into its surroundings. An impression rooted above all in a certain overall coherence.
First, the rightness of the setting. A bright interior, punctuated by warm colours, furniture chosen without excess. Wood, stone, an open kitchen facing the dining room: everything is clear and coherent, without seeking effect. The space soothes more than it seduces, presenting itself as a functional framework designed to endure.
Then, the rightness of the approach. Steven Mirelli and Sophie Dubois have positioned Bagù within a logic of common sense, built on proximity and clarity. Their move to Thuin reads less as a destination project than as a conscious, almost pragmatic return to their roots.
Finally, there is rightness in the choice of products. Ingredients are selected with care, sourced from clearly identified terroirs and offered in a spirit of sharing: roasted bone marrow, coppa from Piétrain pork by Antoine Roisin, house-made bluefin tuna charcuterie or Ardennes ham.
The starters follow this line without disruption: Iberian beef and Comté croquette, raw bluefin tuna in a Bloody Mary style, scallops with black truffle, celeriac and Norman cream, or a black pudding tatin with apple and Roman puntarelle.
The main courses confirm a controlled cuisine: Arctic char with beurre blanc, cime di rapa and citrus crosnes; veal with Cévennes onions, polenta and Meaux mustard; sweetbreads with lobster and spinach. Desserts, hazelnut and chocolate or persimmon with mascarpone and meringue, bring the meal to a restrained close.
Execution favours precision and measured generosity, avoiding both excess and shortcuts. The cuisine remains legible, without the pursuit of an assertive signature.
An instinctive cook, Steven Mirelli occasionally opens his repertoire to other influences, without denying his Italian roots, present in discreet touches. The drink pairings accompany the whole with coherence, never seeking to dominate.
A table that moves forward quietly, whose balance rests more on consistency than on effect.
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