Bagù
Though barely three years old, Bagù has already pulled off the feat of feeling like it’s always been there.
Like a piece of music that becomes a classic even before it hits the airwaves. That impression surely comes from a certain precision.
Precision in the setting, first of all.
A bright interior, dressed in warm or richly toned colors, with carefully chosen furniture; here, a wooden-clad service station, there, stone walls and an open kitchen looking out over the dining room. The perfect cure for grey days and low moods.
Then, precision and honesty in the approach of Steven Mirelli and Sophie Dubois, who have placed Bagù under the banner of good taste. Their move to Thuin should be seen as a strong desire to return to their roots.
Precision in the products too, sourced from the noblest terroirs, whether liquid or solid.
For example: Tajiri beef tartare with sea urchin, lemon mayonnaise and anchovies; mussels with txistorra sausage and fenugreek; open ravioli with octopus, fennel and squid ink oil; or red tuna with scallions, tomatoes and a savoury crumble as starters.
Then: Piétrain pork pluma with smoked aubergine and wild Madagascan pepper; fish of the day "à la Mugnaia" with capers, lemon and courgette; or sirloin with smoked corn purée, summer chanterelles and a rich coffee jus.
To finish: roasted fig with dark chocolate, olive oil and fleur de sel; or roasted apricot with rosemary ice cream and citrus shortbread.
These fine ingredients are delivered with precision and indulgence, acting as true soul lubricants, avoiding the bistronomic false notes.
Steven Mirelli, a chef with sharp instincts and natural generosity, has chosen to open his horizons to new products. Yet he never forgets his Italian roots, adding little transalpine gems to his plates and pairing them with beautifully curated wines to elevate the experience.
In perfect harmony, there's the welcome from Sophie.
Discreet and efficient, she plays her role with subtle grace – the kind that may go unheard, but never unfelt.
This address continues to grow and refine itself – its rising power feels nothing short of inevitable.
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