The Bagù, as recent as it is, succeeds from the start in giving the impression of having always existed. A bit like a piece of music that has become a standard even before being played on the radio. Without doubt it is due to a great accuracy that we owe this. First of all, the accuracy of the setting. A luminous decor, dressed in warm or bright colors, a well-chosen furniture; here a wooden office, here stone and a kitchen open to the room. In other words, the absolute remedy for the blues and sad days. Then there is the correctness and honesty of the approach of Steven Mirelli and Sophie Dubois who, although they left their Villa Castelli when they took over the place, have placed their Bagù under the sign of good taste. Their arrival in Thuin can only be read as a fierce desire to get closer to their land.

The accuracy of the products too, sourced from the noblest terroirs, whether liquid or solid. In bulk, today, the Holstein beef tartar, caviar, candied egg yolk, scallops, potato espuma, passion fruit, lardo di Colonnata as starters, pork, meat juice, Marsala wine, wild chicory, polenta, cod, parsnips, leeks, beets, black garlic or the citrus Panna cotta to close the show. A good idea! These good products are given with greed and precision as real lubricants for the soul, preventing false bistronomic notes. Steven Mirelli, a chef with a fine instinct, has chosen to open his horizons to other products. However, he has not forgotten his Italian origins, punctuating his plates here and there with small transalpine nuggets.

Nice liquid harmonies enrich the experience as with the Arboussas of the Coston estate, a beautiful Grenache Syrah - whose plot is next to the mythical Grange des Pères, the Viñitago Vijariego, a white wine from the Canary Islands, well born from autochthonous grapes or with this Nemesis Flor, an orange wine made in Piedmont, and elaborated like an oxidative wine from the Jura.

In unison with all this, we point out Sophie´s welcome. Discreet and efficient, she plays her role with sobriety, like those precious tasks that you don´t hear, but that you feel.

A beautiful address that we will talk about, and that we are already talking about.