Where the kitchen begins the sentence, and the wine completes it

In Mont-sur-Marchienne, Table & Vin is not really a place you simply visit: it is somewhere you arrive. Like entering a familiar home, a discreet refuge where, even before stepping through the door, you already sense that the moment will matter.

All it takes is to open the door. The corridor is narrow, almost intimate. Tables line one side, while bottles stand in the wine cellar on the other, like a living library. You could almost stretch out your arms and touch both the plate and the wine.

And then, at the very back, there are the men. And the fire.

Here, two voices answer one another with rare precision: that of the craftsman and that of the goldsmith.

Before the wine, before even the dining room, it is always the kitchen that speaks first. At the stove, Pierre-Luc Husson does not simply cook, he makes a statement. His cuisine is generous and sincere, deeply rooted in flavour and respect for the product, driven by an exacting standard that never wavers. Nothing unnecessary, nothing designed merely to impress. Just precise gestures, built on patiently acquired expertise and a simple, almost disciplined conviction: let the ingredients speak, then know when to step aside.

Today, the meal begins with Paimpol coco beans and boned pig’s trotter, veal jus and foie gras, a generous dish that fully embraces its character. Then comes smoked eel, leek heart in vinaigrette and celery oil, delicate and fresh. The grey prawns with tomatoes and herb oil demonstrate how little a fine product sometimes needs. The brioche toast with Bordeaux porcini mushrooms, foie gras and rich veal jus brings depth, while the blue lobster gratin with leeks and lobster sauce, available as a supplement, takes the indulgence a little further.

The main courses follow the same path, generous and perfectly controlled. The tagliatelle with blue lobster and lobster coulis celebrate pure indulgence with effortless elegance. The veal fillet with chanterelles, sand carrots and veal jus with aged balsamic delivers a deeply comforting expression of terroir. The Iberian pork fillet with aubergine and bellota pork belly, finished with a miso jus, introduces a more unexpected balance. Finally, the wild turbot with Paimpol coco bean and cockle ragout, finished with consommé butter, brings the maritime sequence to a delicate close.

A true, luminous cuisine in which precision never gets in the way of pleasure. And where Pierre-Luc Husson builds, plate after plate, an identity that never seeks to impress through theatrics, but ultimately speaks for itself through flavour.

Then comes the wine, as a natural response.

In the cellar, the bottles already have stories to tell, but here they dictate nothing. They accompany.

Thierry Jacques, maître sommelier with a twinkle in his eye, is one of those people who have seen and tasted an enormous amount without ever turning that experience into arrogance. From Comme Chez Soi to Taillevent and the George V, he has worked in some of Belgium’s great houses and Parisian palaces. An extraordinary career, now carried with disarming lightness, giving him a quiet, almost magnetic authority in the dining room.

He may have left the golden uniforms behind, but certainly not the grace and elegance of the profession. Every bottle is selected with precision, explained with simplicity and served with the generosity that distinguishes great sommeliers.

Here, wine never leads the meal. It extends the dishes, reveals a sauce, illuminates a cooking technique and accompanies an emotion.

And for those who want to go further, a new addition enriches the table: the Menu Prestige. A four-course composition designed as a continuous expression of Pierre-Luc Husson’s talent. The blue lobster gratin with leeks and lobster sauce opens the sequence, followed by wild turbot with Paimpol coco beans, cockles and consommé butter. Then come the crispy veal sweetbreads with porcini mushrooms and veal jus with aged balsamic, before the meal concludes with a choice left to the guest: raw-milk cheeses or the dessert of the day.

And then there is that suspended moment.

The plate arrives. The wine is poured. Eyes meet. A second of silence in which everything simply falls into place.

That is where the soul of Table & Vin lies. In the constant dialogue between two men who ultimately speak the same language. One writes with his pans, the other with his bottles.

The kitchen begins the sentence.

The wine gives it its full resonance.

You leave with a feeling that has become increasingly rare: that you have been welcomed, rather than simply served. A place where nothing feels forced, where the kitchen leads, where the wine illuminates, and where hospitality brings everything together with an almost effortless elegance.

LD · Eating · September 2026