The taste of things done well

After several fine years at their original location, Benoît Bertozzi and Lucie Merche have taken a step sideways. Just a few metres away, but with an entirely new perspective. Their restaurant is now housed in an elegant villa on the edge of rue de Wiltz, gaining light, space and room to breathe.

The place opens up, quite literally. An open kitchen, airy volumes, clean lines. Everything seems designed to accompany an evolution that has become a natural one. Nothing here is trying to impress. Everything is simply trying to be right.

In the kitchen, Benoît Bertozzi continues along the same path. Clear, precise cooking without showmanship, presented through a three- or four-course menu featuring redfish ceviche, Iberian ham, chimichurri, redcurrant and melon, or 64-degree egg, chanterelles, snails, beetroot and mushroom emulsion.

The main courses include suckling pig chop, butter beans, soybeans, octopus, chorizo and potato, alongside catch of the day, tandoori carcass jus, sugar snaps, courgette, risotto, stracciatella and peach. A selection of matured cheeses leads into a dessert built around strawberry, basil, vanilla ice cream and lemon gel.

The à la carte menu leaves more room for freedom.

The starters set the tone immediately. Pork cheek and Iberian ham croquettes, piquillo ketchup and endive salad offer pure comfort. The 64-degree egg, with chanterelles, snails, beetroot and mushroom emulsion, brings a more earthy, vegetable-driven note. The lobster risotto adds a more distinctly maritime indulgence.

Then come the main courses. Fresh pasta with summer truffle goes straight to the point, generous and fragrant. The whole pigeon, prepared in two ways, with seasonal accompaniments, remains one of the restaurant's signature dishes. Finally, the catch of the day, with tandoori carcass jus, sugar snaps, courgette, risotto, stracciatella and peach, offers a fresher, more contemporary interpretation.

Desserts follow the same philosophy: clear, precise and without excess. Coupe Colonel, crème brûlée, Chokotoff emulsion, vanilla ice cream and meringue, or a traditional Dame Blanche: each brings the meal back to the essentials, with just the right touch of finesse.

In the dining room, Lucie Merche embodies that same sense of balance. Present and attentive, she orchestrates service that is smooth, natural and never intrusive. Hospitality that does not need to announce itself, but can be felt.

As the courses unfold, the restaurant's identity becomes increasingly clear. Honest cooking, rigorous execution and a setting perfectly aligned with what it serves.

Here, the taste of things done well is not a slogan, it's a guiding principle.

LD · Eating · August 2026