Le Contre Façon, two interpretations of the same truth

Some roads prepare you for what is to come.
Where the landscape slows down, where light filters through the trees, where colours layer without ever imposing themselves. As you approach Virelles, something settles. The road becomes a transition, almost an intention.

Then the square appears. And with it, Le Contre Façon.

The house immediately asserts its presence. An old, grounded building that tells a story even before you step inside. Within, the eye moves freely: solid wood, a structuring staircase, warm lighting. Everything finds a balance between heritage and modernity. Nothing is static, everything is alive.

In the kitchen, Loïc Pierard develops an idea both simple and distinctive: presenting each product in two interpretations. A mirrored approach where the classical meets a more contemporary expression. Two readings, one intention.

The langoustines open this dual perspective. Lightly seared, enhanced by a bisque whipped with butter, croutons and lemon. Or as a tartare, with lime, pickled radish and Oscietre caviar — sharper, more direct.

Offal dishes extend this identity. Crispy sweetbreads with rémoulade, crab and meat jus offer deep indulgence. The pig’s trotter cromesquis take a more vibrant turn, with ponzu, fresh herbs and an iodised mayonnaise.

Veal is also explored in two ways. A revisited blanquette with leeks, slow-cooked meatballs and rice chips. Then a low-temperature filet with roasted onions, Chimay cheese and berry jus, richer and more structured.

Cod follows the same logic. On one side, a classic approach with beurre blanc and Antonius caviar. On the other, a more contemporary version with sea urchin emulsion, cod gyoza and chimichurri.

A weekly selection of beef from Gaël Leblanc completes the experience.

Desserts by Valérie continue this sense of balance: apple tarte tatin with spiced cream, sorbet and almonds; a reimagined Snickers with mango and passion fruit; and a perfectly executed dame blanche.
In between, the remarkable Belgian cheese trolley stands out — generous and expressive, anchoring the experience firmly in its terroir.

In the dining room, Marie sets the tone. Present and natural, she embodies the spirit of the house, where everything flows effortlessly. Around her, a team that is precise, attentive, never intrusive.

Le Contre Façon does not oppose styles.
It brings them into dialogue.

And in that balance, it finds something rare:
a cuisine that can be read, understood… and felt.

LD · Eating · march 2026