Le Mont-à-Gourmet, the quiet maturity of Nicolas Tournay

First, there is the setting. A village square that seems suspended outside time. The church still keeps watch, while the monument recalls memories of another era. And the restaurant appears there, slightly set back, four steps higher, almost with a sense of modesty. Arriving in Gouy-lez-Piéton feels like entering a peaceful theatre, touched by a gentle melancholy and by those childhood memories that only certain places know how to awaken.

This is where Alain Hamoline laid the foundations of Le Mont-à-Gourmet at the beginning of the century before passing the restaurant on to his son Arnaud. Today, Nicolas Tournay continues that story with intelligence and sensitivity, in what increasingly feels like a true culinary maturity.

Behind the appearance of great classical gastronomy, an expression that regains all its nobility here, the restaurant takes care of its guests with rare warmth. Each service seems animated by the discreet generosity of family meals, where the aim is less to impress than to make people feel cared for. Nicolas Tournay carries this spirit forward with remarkable elegance. His plates have a distinctly pictorial quality: clear colours, precise compositions and details worked out to the millimetre. Yet the aesthetic gesture never takes precedence over what truly matters.

Because behind the visual delicacy lies a genuine chef. A craftsman whose talent has been patiently built, service after service, until it has become a quiet certainty. Every dish reflects his expertise, his mastery of cooking, the depth of his sauces and his absolute respect for the ingredient. Nicolas Tournay also brings this exacting approach to hospitality education, where he now passes on what was taught to him: the right gesture, the discipline of the profession, the desire to do things well before seeking to stand out. A generosity that therefore extends beyond the plate and flows through the entire restaurant.

On today’s menu, the Confit salmon opens with aubergine, sorrel and kimchi, bringing freshness and depth. The Catch of the day, accompanied by shellfish, courgette and dill, offers a more maritime and vegetal composition. Then comes Iberian pluma, enhanced with tandoori, octopus and corn, in a beautifully balanced combination. Further on, the Veal blanquette, prepared with carrots, mushrooms and Arlequin sauce, offers a more contemporary interpretation without ever breaking with the restaurant’s classical thread. A pre-dessert or cheese platter follows, before the Crème brûlée with sweet cicely, blueberry and frangipane brings the meal to a bright and delicate close.

Supported by the Hamoline family and accompanied by the discreet elegance of his partner in the dining room, Nicolas Tournay has found his full culinary voice. A cuisine that is classical at heart and sensitive in execution, choosing depth over effect and expressing emotion with remarkable precision.

LD · Eating · September 2026