Jaloa

Every chef should be able to answer for his actions in the kitchen. One might bakes and another might prefer to roast - they still assume responsibility. Now, Gaëtan Colin, he brews – infusing with knowledge and patience. His culinary gestures are anything but innocuous - he strives to be almost philosophical. We know that that timely infusion involves the extraction of aromas and tastes by boiling a liquid and then allowing it to cool. The art of infusion reveals an ultimate respect for the produce and one has to master the depths of alchemy - where cooking reduces, distorts and alters. When he cooks - impossible to apply economies in gastronomy - the chef at Jaloa loses himself in broths, an operation that is a form of osmosis as he generates new molecules.
For him it's as if making food has to be accompanied, as close as possible, by his initial natural reactions. There's also something spontaneous about his historic den on quai au Barques where 25 lucky devotees are spoiled by his devotion to the "moment" ... offering up daily suggestions to avoid any stuffiness in the menu.