Chai Gourmand

We recall G.W.F. Hegel 's famous phrase: "Only when dusk starts to fall does the owl of Minerva spread its wings and fly. " By this the German philosopher, an apostle of reason, reminds us that meaning has passed on by the time we understand it. And so what happens is never immediately understandable - it is only with hindsight that we can grasp a fact's true worth. It's much the same with Pierre Massin's descriptive cuisine. Faced with his gently cooked turbot, risotto, chorizo, clams, sea asparagus, artichokes, anchovies and sudashi vinaigrette, we get the initial feeling that it's off-limits. How to tackle it? The plot thickens when it reaches the palate and the taste buds begin to interpret: bite after bite, they reveal the influence of a coastal biotope, recreated in a hinterland far from the sea (landlocked Gembloux). The same effect holds true for the starter and the dessert. This ambitious, environmental food - with the accent on the "mental" aspects - is accompanied wonderfully by a sommelier who does well to track the food's detours ... without allowing himself to be burdened by the diktats of those who "drink" the label.